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Layers and Layers of Flavor

Huntington-favorite Backyard Pizza and Raw Bar comes to Mountaineer Country.

Photographed by Nikki Bowman Mills

Drew Hetzer and his wife, Meg, knew about the high failure rate of restaurants when they set out to open one in 2012. But with their third Backyard Pizza and Raw Bar location now open here in Morgantown, it’s safe to say their gamble paid off.

Their first endeavor began in Huntington, where Hetzer had grown up tagging along with his mom during her shifts as a waitress. Although he worked in the business himself
as a teen, he didn’t initially see a future for himself in hospitality, so he went to Marshall University to study journalism and public relations. 





But the restaurant industry continued to call his name, so he put his research skills to work to find a niche for the lunch crowd. Pizza and seafood were the front-runners, and the Hetzers thought, “Why not both?” Working on a shoestring budget, they landed on a rustic cooking style, using a wood-fired grill and oven, that felt both authentic and Appalachian. With only $400 in their account after their first food order, the pressure was on. But the community clearly saw something special in the Backyard style.

The Hetzers opened The Peddler a couple years later, a restaurant, brewery, and arcade that’s well-known for supplying fun craft brews like the Bearded Lady Blonde and Boogercat Brown. They opened a second location of Backyard Pizza in Boyd County, Kentucky, in 2022. And when the Pleasant Street storefront in downtown Morgantown became available, they knew it would be a great fit. Once home to Black Bear Burritos and then Chestnut Beer Hall, the space opened as the third location of Backyard Pizza in December 2025. West Virginia University students and local families alike quickly embraced its unique creations.  

Although neither have formal training, the Hetzers honed their craft by learning from other chefs, cooking at home, and trial and error experimentations until they created the perfect menu items. The Woo-Tang pizza is popular at every location, but one of Drew Hetzer’s favorites is the Chop House because of its layered flavor profile: fire-roasted shaved New York strip, cremini mushrooms, horseradish cream, and more. 





“With us, it’s almost like Willy Wonka’s Chocolate Factory,” he says. “You’re going to experience different flavors in the same dish with each bite. I encourage people to try something new every time they visit. There’s lots to explore.” Of all their locations, Morgantown has embraced the availability of the raw bar, especially the fresh oysters. “We have a good provider, and we serve them three to five days from the harvest date,” Drew says. “I’m really picky about our oysters. We make sure we’re serving the freshest ones.” 

Backyard Pizza offers vegetarian options and daily lunch specials as well as Sunday brunch. The Hetzers recently trademarked Backyard Pizza and Raw Bar in hopes of offering franchising opportunities to folks who can maintain their high standards. 

“We’re about 130 employees deep, between The Peddler and the Backyard locations,” Hetzer says. “It’s a good feeling to be able to provide jobs and opportunities for that many people and their families. It’s also great seeing them carry out that passion for the product we put out. We make everything fresh in-house, and we don’t cut any corners. Executing that consistently, it’s our staff that makes that happen.”





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Backyard Pizza’s Shrimp and Scallop Ceviche

Ingredients

  • 1/2 pound raw shrimp
  • 1/2 pound raw scallops
  • 1/4 cup red onion diced
  • 1/4 cup jalapeño seeds removed, diced
  • 1/4 cup bell pepper diced—bright orange and red peppers are fun!
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1/3 cup cilantro chopped, plus more for garnish
  • 1/4 cup fresh-squeezed
  • lemon juice
  • 1/4 cup fresh-squeezed
  • lime juice
  • 1/4 cup fresh-squeezed
  • orange juice
  • 1 tablespoon white vinegar
  • 3 tablespoons coconut milk
  • Avocado and fresh lime juice for garnish and tortilla or plantain chips to serve

Instructions

  • Slice shrimp and scallops to desired size. I personally prefer nickel- to quarter-sized chunks.
  • Place shrimp, scallops, onion, jalapeño, bell peppers, cilantro, and salt in non-reactive mixing bowl (glass, stainless steel, food-grade plastic, ceramic, or porcelain), then mix.
  • Add lemon, lime, and orange juices, vinegar, and coconut milk.
  • Stir together, cover, and cure in the refrigerator for two hours.
  • Once cured, top with a squeeze of lime, sliced avocado, and more fresh cilantro. Serve with tortilla or plantain chips and enjoy!

Notes

You can substitute tilapia, snapper, halibut, mahi mahi, or another type of fresh, firm whitefish. Use 1 pound of seafood per batch.
For best results, use fresh seafood and not frozen. If using frozen, be sure it’s fully thawed first.
Chop cilantro in only two passes with a knife—over-chopping can make the cilantro mushy.
Best enjoyed within six hours after it’s cured.

READ MORE STORIES FROM OUR SUMMER 2026 ISSUE

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